If you’re moving into a home that’s been winterized, or if you’ve been away from home for a long period of time throughout the winter, you’ll need to de-winterize it to make it usable. Learning how to de-winterize your home, both inside and out, will assist you in settling in for the warmer months ahead.
Method 1: Dewinterizing Your Windows
Take insulation off windows
If you’ve put up insulation film on the windows, you’ll need to take it down before you can open the windows. Leaving insulation film up after the winter will make it stuffy and hot inside your home.
- Use a hairdryer to heat up the double-sided tape along the perimeter of the windows. Once the adhesive agent is warm and soft, you should be able to pull the plastic straight off the window frame. Use the hairdryer once again to soften any adhesive that was left on the window frame. Then, use warm water and soap or a spray-on cleaning agent to scrub off any traces of adhesive on the window frame.
- If you installed storm windows, you’ll need to remove those, as well.
Clean the inside of windows
Once the insulation is off, you’ll need to clean the windows. It’s best to clean both the inside and outside of the windows, since it’s probably been a while since the windows were cleaned.
- Use a spray-on cleaning agent or cold, soapy water and a sponge for washing the inside of windows.
- Use clean paper towels or a clean, lint-free cloth to wipe the inside of windows dry.
Clean the outside of windows
The outside of windows can be washed using the same spray-on cleaning agent or cold, soapy water. If you are cleaning the outside of windows on a two- or three-story house, it may be difficult or even unsafe to wipe down the windows. In this case, you may want to wash the windows using a hose, angled upward from the yard.
Check caulking and weather stripping
Once you’ve cleaned the windows, you may want to check the caulking and weather strips around the windows. Caulk and weather strips can wear down over time, and if you use air conditioning in your home during the summer an air leak can cost you money and energy.
- Choose a caulk that is waterproof to ensure that no moisture gets into your home.
- Clean the edges that are to be caulked. Scrape away old, peeling caulk or paint with a putty knife or flathead screwdriver.
- Hold the caulk gun at a 45 degree angle around the entire window.
- Apply the caulk in a continuous, straight stream to every joint in the window frame and to the joint where the wall and window frame meet.
- Be sure that the caulk is adhering to both sides of the seams.
- Use a putty knife to place any errant caulk into the seam where you want it.
- Allow caulk to completely dry before painting or touching the caulk. Drying times vary depending on the type of caulk used, but most caulks will be completely dry within 24 hours.
Method 2: Addressing Safety Concerns
Test smoke and CO2 alarms
Smoke and carbon monoxide alarms should be tested every month, but it’s especially important if you haven’t inhabited the house for an extended period of time.
Test alarms by pressing the test button.
Replace any batteries that are dead or dying. Most smoke alarms require a nine volt battery.
Vacuum around the vents of smoke alarms and carbon monoxide alarms to remove any dust that has built up around the sensors.
Change furnace filters
The filter on your furnace traps dust, dander, hair/fur, and other particulates in the air inside your home. Basic fiberglass or paper filters typically need to be changed every one to two months, and electrostatic or HEPA filters need to be cleaned or changed every two to four months.Even though you won’t need the furnace during summer, it’s a good idea to change old filters. If a cold snap hits in the spring and you turn the furnace back on, you’ll want to ensure that the furnace isn’t loaded up with dirt, dust, and other particulates.
- Be sure the furnace is turned off.
- Remove the service panel. If you cannot find it, consult the manufacturer’s guide.
- Slide out the old filter. Filters are typically located near the fan inside the furnace.
- Insert a new filter, then close up the service panel.
Clean out the fireplace
If your home has a fireplace, it’s a good idea to clean it out as part of your spring cleaning and dewinterization routine. Much like the furnace filter, you want to ensure that the fireplace is clean, in case a cold snap hits in the spring and you need to have a fire.
Move anything that might be blocking the fireplace, and put down old sheets or a plastic shower curtain to catch any ash and soot.
Use a wet paper towel to wipe down the grate inside the fireplace.[23]
Use a shop vacuum to remove as much of the ash, soot, and wood fragments as possible. Do not use a regular household vacuum, as the material you vacuum from the fireplace might clog the filter of the vacuum.[24]
Scrub the walls and floor of the fireplace with a handled brush and a mixture of warm water and a gentle soap.[25]
Have a professional chimney cleaner scrub out your chimney to prevent the risk of fire.[26]
Method 3: Cleaning the Inside of Your Home
Dust any ceiling fans
You can use rubber bands to fasten paper towels or a cleaning wipe to a paint roller, which can then be rolled across the fan blades. If you don’t have these materials you can use a broom to dust the blades of a ceiling fan.
Sweep and vacuum the floors
- You’ll need a broom to sweep wood and tile floors and a vacuum to clean any carpets.
- You can sweep from end to end, or start along one wall and clean the perimeter of the room, working your way inward.
- Use a similar method for carpeted rooms
Mop the floors
Once you’ve swept the floors, you may need to mop to clean up any dirt and dust that accumulated over the winter.
Fill a bucket with warm water and a cleaning agent like Murphy’s Oil or Pinesol.
Dip a mop into the bucket, ring it out thoroughly, and work your way across the floor. Start in the corner farthest from the door you’ll use to leave the room, so you don’t have to walk across a wet floor.
Use short strokes and move with the grain of the floor, if the floors are made of wood.
Method 4: Dewinterizing the Outside of Your Home
Turn your water back on
If your water was turned off for the winter, you’ll need to turn the water back on. This should be a fairly simple procedure, unless your home is very old.
- The inside valve may be located under the kitchen sink, in a cupboard, or underneath a removable floorboard.
- The outside valve, also called a stopcock, is usually located with the water meter or near the edge of your property, under a cover.
- Turn the valve counterclockwise to open the valve and return water flow to your home.
- Run water through the pipes to flush out any sediment that might be in them.
Check pipes for leaks
After a harsh winter, it’s possible your pipes might have frozen and cracked. Cracked pipes can cause leaks that could damage your home and will lose a lot of water if left untreated..
- Find your home’s water meter. It is located outside the house, usually near a gate or fence if you have one.
- Turn off all the taps in your home, except for the stop taps at the toilet and next to the water meter.
- Make sure no one in your home uses any water while you test the pipes.
- Record the numbers on your water meter dial.
- Wait two hours, then record the number on the water meter again. If any of the numbers are different, there may be a leak. Call a qualified plumber to assess any damage and make repairs as necessary.
Inspect the foundation
After a harsh winter, it’s important to check your foundation for any cracks or separations. Walk around the perimeter of the house. If there are any cracks, or if the foundation and wall are disjointed, it should be readily apparent. Call a qualified contractor for any damage to the house’s foundation.
Clean the gutters
After the fall and winter, many gutters become clogged with leaves and branches. Cleaning out the gutters will help reduce the chances of your home incurring water damage due to clogged gutters and drains.
- Secure a ladder in front of your gutters. If possible, have someone with you to hold the ladder in place.
- Wear yard gloves to protect your hands.
- Use a small hand trowel to scoop out leaves and mud. Scoop debris into a garbage bag.
- Use a hose to clean the downspout.
Check the roof for damage
While you are on a ladder, you may want to examine your roof to look for damage. Roofs frequently lose shingles during bad weather, and may be susceptible to holes or water damage. Use caution when examining the roof. If there is any risk of damage to the roof, do not walk, sit, or climb onto the roof at all.
Visually examine the roof, looking for any shingles that are missing or damaged. If possible, check for loose nails.
Visually scan the roof, looking for any dents or dips, as these could indicate a leak.
Call a qualified roofer if you believe there is any structural damage to your roof.
Clean the garage and driveway
It’s important to thoroughly clean out your garage floor and your driveway to ensure that any sidewalk salt is properly rinsed away. Sidewalk salt can cause cracks and etches in the concrete, and the problem gets worse the longer salt sits on the concrete.
Sweep the garage and the length of the driveway with a push broom. Then rinse the garage floor and driveway thoroughly using a hose.
